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Huaraz in the rainy season

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High Mountaineering

White Range - Peru

Peru is a privileged country for the practice of high mountaineering sport that consists in the ascent of snow peaks, using specific climbing and security techniques. This is a sport that started in Europe at the beginning of the last century, and with the time is becoming more popular in the whole world, being Peru and its mountains, one of the biggest challenges for any mountaineer, due to its beautiful landscape, big walls and altitude difficulty. The Peruvian Andes constitute the previous scale to climb a peak in The Himalayas or Karakorum Range.

 

In high mountaineering there is a difference between ascension and climbing. Ascension means to arrive to the summit by walking in glaciers with slope less than 40º and by security reasons, especially in the White Range where lots of cracks exist, the participants are joined by a rope. The climber is equipped with ice crampons, which are steel nails that you can add to the snow boots in order not to slip down in hard snow or ice, and a long axe that the climber uses as a walking stick, to ascent a steeper pass or to brake a fall.

 

Climbing means more difficulty, because the climber ascents snow or ice walls more than 40º. The climber is equipped with technical crampons and two axes (a bit shorter), that use to affix to the hard snow or ice.

 

The same as other sports, for mountaineering many different scales were elaborated. Infinite Adventures uses UIAA scale (International Union of Alpinism Associations):

 

  • Fácil (F): Start of the Alpine scale, lowest rating for glaciers. A rope may be used at times also in rocks. Easy climbing (I, occasionally II), gentle glacier with slopes up to around 30°.
  • Poco Difícil (PD): Climbing passages are typically rated II, and there may also be sections of III. Securing techniques required. Glaciers are cracked and snow slopes are typically up to 35°-40°, rarely steeper. Crampons and ice axe needed. Tours at this level of difficulty are usually still accessible to accompanied people in good physical shape without much alpine experience.
  • Algo Difícil (AD): Climbing passages are up to III, with sections of IV. Slings, wedges etc. may be needed for securing in rocks. Snow and ice slopes are 40°-45°, short passages also 50°.
  • Difícil (D): Rock parts are typically rated IV but there may also be sections of V. One may have to bring substantial climbing equipment. Snow and ice will occasionally exceed 55°.
  • Muy Difícil (MD): Very difficult: big number of 60ºpeaches in snow with some ice peaches of 70º to 85.
  • Extremadamente Difícil (ED): Extremely difficult: Vertical ice walls. Mix or rock until IV grade or possible artificial peach.
  • Excepcionalmente Difícil (EX): Exceptionally Difficult: itinerary of alpine difficulties grade VII. Long, sustained and dangerous peaches.

 

Some of the mountain in The White Range:

 

 

Mountain Route Maximal Elevation UIAA grades
Ishinca Normal 5530 masl PD
Pisco Southwest ridge 5752 masl PD
Yanapaccha Northeast summit 5326 masl AD
Alpamayo Southeast face 5947 masl D
Chopicalqui Southeast ridge 6354 masl PD+ / AD-
Huascarán Garganta or Normal 6768 masl PD+
Artesonraju Southeast face 6025 masl D
Tocllaraju West face 6034 masl AD

 

 

First ask about mountain conditions, because some years the National Park Huascaran closed officially some mountains for risk of avalanches.

 

In the Peruvian Andes the day to the summit could start at 1 or 2 AM, in order to get very early to the glacier and avoid risk of avalanches.

 

Infinite Adventure provides the following logistics for High Mountaineering (only F and PD).

 

BACKPACKER SERVICE

  • Private transportation and transfers
  • UIAGM mountaineering certified guide or aspirant every 2 or 3 people
  • Mules and muleteers
  • Cook
  • Full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • Group gear: Four season tent, dinning and toilet tent, stove, gas lamp, table, chairs and tableware.
  • Security gear: rope, carabineers, ice scrolls, stakes and helmet
  • Entrance to the Huascaran National Park
  • First Aid Kit

 

Do not include:

  • Personal clothes: Warm clothe, waterproof jacket and pants, down jacket, waterproof gloves, hat.
  • Personal gear: Backpack, headlamp, sunglasses, axe, crampons, harness, snow boots, leggings, sleeping bag, mattress. (Personal clothes and gear are obligatory).
  • Transportation Lima – Huaraz – Lima
  • Emergency Horse
  • Lodging in Huaraz
  • Meals in Huaraz
  • Tips and extras
  • Oxygen tanks

 

Hyperbaric chamber (ask for availability):

US$ 30,00 per day (authorized only to UIAGM certified mountain guide)

 

It’s also possible to rent backpack, waterproof jackets and pants, headlamp, sunglasses, axe, harness, snow boots, leggings, sleeping bag, mattress, down jacket for an additional price.

 

Note: Aspirants for mountaineering guide are allowed to guide F and PD routes such as Pisco, Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Urus and Maparaju.

 

SPECIAL SERVICE

For an additional price the passenger can contact a better service, which in addition to the backpacker service includes:

SPECIAL SERVICE

For an additional price per person:

  • UIAGM Mountain guide
  • International and very elaborated menu
  • Pillows
  • Beer, wine or Pisco sour
  • Ecological toiletries
  • Warm water to wash yourself in the morning

 

In AD Mountains, the logistics change totally because the mules can’t arrive to the high camps and porters are required. The objective is to take less weight.

For adventure sports and activities in mountain regions it is recommended to buy an insurance that covers for high risk sports and helicopter rescue. Infinite Adventures doesn’t make refunds for bad weather conditions. Rainy season: October to April (Precipitation is also possible during the dry season).

 

 

INFINITE ADVENTURES TOUR OPERATOR

Jr. Las Antararias S/N, Los Quenoales Independencia - Huaraz
Peru: +51979191285
Spain: +34603850171

Presentation Infinite Adventures

5 reasons to come to Huaraz in the rainy season

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